Bulan Thai. It’s no Jitlada, but you know what? At Jitlada I have to pretend there isn’t secretly fish sauce in everything I eat and at Bulan, I know it’s vegan.

What’s weird/amazing/scary about Bulan is they have very realistic fish substitutes. I’m used to meat and chicken imitations, like gardein and tofurkey, but I think this is my sole (get it?) experience with fake fish. And, surprisingly, it’s a positive experience. Nothing like this:

Proof is in the pudding Crisp Fish with Green Apples:

Most fried, tart, citrusy, vinegary, hot, delicious weird fake fish thing you’ve ever thought you didn’t want but were wrong about. Ever.

The Busaba Pumpkin with tofu, garlic, chilies and squash would have been better had it been hotter. My dining partner kindly pointed out the food got cold while I was taking pictures, so maybe it’s my fault, although I’m pretty sure, for once in my life, I was actually innocent.

The Tofu Lahb salad could have done a better job imitating real life lahb but it had a personality of it’s own, and I can get down for sure.

I ate at the location on Melrose, but the one in Silver Lake delivers to me, making them extraordinarily likable in my book given my desire for Poh Tak or Tom Yum when I’m sick.

You’re a steady, reliable, decent friend, Bulan. I plan on keeping you around. As long as the waiter doesn’t ever thrust his pelvis in my date’s direction while I’m eating again. I mean it.